Finishing:
Scraping:
Scraping is the first step to get the final edges.
Metal saws are the best tools for scraping.
Simply, all what you have to do is to scrape with the blade of the saw the edges of the sheet.
Filing:
When cutting 10 to 12 inches, metal files are highly recommended.
Filing occurs in one side only, and the teeth should be in parity with the surface of the sheet in order to prevent cracking, then the abrasive paper used should be exchanged with another more abrasive and drier paper (220).
Finishing should be done with dry/wet paper (440), and it should be used wet.
(660) paper can be used.
Wooden or rubber paper can be used
When trying to remove scratches, one has to make sure that the area of paper is larger than the area of scratches.
Working with these files and papers should be performed in a circular fashion and with the availability of water.
We can use any abrasive automatic machine with acrylic with slight pressure and less speeds.
Polishing:
In order to polish, the sheet should be moved around and backwards inside the smoothing machine.
One has to pay attention to high pressure, with the continuation of work in order to prevent the accumulation of heat.
One should not start polishing with the edges of the sheet, this may cause the sheet to be stuck inside the machine or be thrown in the direction of the polisher.
Shaping the Sheets:
Acrylic materials can be elastic with heat, and then it becomes solid again when cooled.
Never ever try to heat acrylic materials inside home ovens, this can cause fire or explosion or suffocating smoke.
Vertical heat is the best tool for he shaping of acrylic. With this method, shaping happens directly and in the desired locations and spots.
The sheet is heated till the desired spot is elastic enough to be shaped.
Shaping should occur away from the heating source.
Sheets with thickness more than 16/3 should be heated from both sides to guarantee the best shaping results.
High quality holding tools should be used to insure the best results. Cotton gloves should be on when dealing with heated acrylic.
Materials used in the Production of Acrylic:
Soluble materials are much better for the fastening of acrylic than liquid ones. There are two methods: the simple attenuation method, and the concentration method.
The Attenuation method:
The commonest of all method in fastening and fixing acrylic.
First, all parts should be fastened to each other tightly and harmoniously.
Then they should be fastened together either by lamination coverings or by metal holders to fix them in their right places.
It is important that all these sheets remain in a horizontal position so as to retain its cohesive matter.
The cohesive material should be applied to the spot of fastening carefully.
This cohesive matter should be applied to both sides, and it is recommended that this cohesive material be spread on these spots via a thin tube.
The thin line of cohesive will soon spread on the surface of the sheets forming a strong cohesive matter that needs only 24 to 48 hours to be at the best shape.
The Concentration Method:
It is favourably used with thicker acrylic sheets.
